Helen of Troy: Risky even by Falling Knife Standards
I’m sure someone other than me has observed that a value investment is a value investment that worked out and a value trap is a value investment that didn’t work out. At any rate, it seems to me that it takes more than a high earnings yield to make a value stock. A low P/E can be justified if the company is risky or in terminal decline, which are not inherently disqualifying for a stock, but when combined with a lack of competitive moat a low multiple is well-deserved and is unlikely to signal an opportunity.
Which brings us to Helen of Troy (HELE). This knife has been falling since 2022 when it had a share price of about $245; it consolidated at around $97 between October of 2022 and June of 2023, went up a bit and then back down and then fell off another cliff in June of 2024 to about $55 or $60, drifted sideways for a bit, and then collapsed again because of the tariffs to $24 and change as of this writing, and has not shared in the post-tariff rally. The question becomes at what point, if any, we can declare this share price decline to be overdone.
Actually, that’s the wrong question. First of all, historical stock prices are widely believed to have no predictive power, and obviously the people who thought the company was worth $245 in 2022 are no longer around and willing to act on their belief by bidding the company back up. Second, a company is fairly or incorrectly priced based on its earnings power, not by the path it took to arrive at that price. And third it is entirely possible for the fair price to be zero, particularly in the presence of debt. It may or may be not be a bit harsh to apply this criterion to HELE, as we shall see.
Helen of Troy is a supplier of kitchenware, insulated beveragewear and coolers, and outdoor carrier packs; and also cosmetics, home health care products, and also heaters, fans, air purifiers, etc. to both online and physical retailers. This somewhat chaotic mix of household goods is the result of several acquisitions over the years and whatever competitive advantage Helen of Troy brings from its distribution network is questionable, as sales have been declining in recent years. The company has been focusing on rationalizing its brand portfolio and has incurred significant restructuring charges in recent years, which one is often tempted to treat as nonrecurring but for a serial acquirer undergoing business difficulties I anticipate that Helen of Troy will be in a constant state of restructuring for the foreseeable future.
Helen of Troy’s product lines are largely commoditized, meaning that their products tend to compete on price more than product differentiation. The cosmetics I’m not so worried about for even with recession fears in the market, make-up is about the last thing women will cut from their budget, and generally they are considered consumer staples rather than discretionary. On the other hand, even if people will continue to buy cosmetics, it is not a given that they will continue to buy them from Helen of Troy. Sales in the US account for 3/4 of total sales, and as 63% of their products came from China in fiscal year 2025 (fiscal year ends in February), the tariff concern is not unjustifiable.
Turning now to the figures, just about 47% of Helen of Troy’s sales in 2025 came from Home & Outdoor and 53% from Beauty and Wellness. Sales in the former declined by 1.1% as compared to 2024, and in the latter, 10%, not counting the effect of a new acquisition.
I am often in the practice of counting acquisitions as growth capital rather than maintenance capital for purposes of computing free cash flow, but I think this approach is more justifiable for industrial companies and other capital-intensive businesses where an acquisition can add a new product line or supplier and at any rate it represents its own source of sales and earnings. But in HELE’s case, acquisitions of brand names are part of the company’s innate strategy and generally results in acquiring intangibles, so I think acquisitions might well be charged against free cash flow, particularly as they have resulted in occasional goodwill writeoffs. At any rate, given the size of Helen of Troy’s recent acquisitions relative to its current market cap, the acquisitions should at least be noted.
The figures are further complicated by a gain on the sale and leaseback of certain premises in 2024 which the company credited to cost of goods sold for some reason, and the expense of complying with an EPA ruling in 2023, both of which I have adjusted out. Counting the gains from the sale of property as operating income borders on an accounting shenanigan to me, as the company is not in the business of buying and selling real estate and this gain is not part of the company’s recurrent business activity.
In 2025: Sales $1908 million, gross margin $914 million, operating income (not counting impairments) $188 million, depreciation and amortization $55 million and capital expenditures $30 million, producing operating cash flow of $213 million. Interest expense $52 million, leaving $161 million or $128 million after 20% estimated taxes. There was also a $229 million acquisition, so if that is counted free cash flow was actually negative in fiscal year 2025.
In 2024 sales were $2005 million, gross margin $949 million, operating income (adjusted for real estate gains) was $224 million. Depreciation and amortization was $51 million and capital expenditure was $37 million, leaving $238 million in operating cash flow. Interest expense was $53 million, leaving $183 million, or $146 million after estimated taxes. There were no acquisitions this year.
In 2023 sales were $2073 million, gross margin was $899 million, operating income (adjusted for EPA compliance costs) were $235 million. Depreciation and amortization were $45 million, and capital expenditures were $175 million, leaving $105 million. Interest expense was $41 million, leaving $64 million, or $49 million after estimated taxes. There was also $146 million in acquisitions that year.
In 2022 sales were $2223 million, gross margin was $953 million, operating income was $273 million. Depreciation and amortization was $36 million and capital expenditures were $78 million, producing operating cash flow of $231 million. Interest expense was $13 million, leaving $218 million, or $176 million after estimated taxes. There was also $411 million in acquisitions that year.
The alert reader will note that the acquisitions were not covered by Helen of Troy’s operating cash flows, which were funded by borrowings. And yet despite these acquisitions, sales and earnings have been declining. I should note in 2025 the company repurchased $103.2 million in shares at an average price of $99.34, and in 2024, $55.2 million at an average price of $127.67. Helen of Troy also repurchased $188 million in shares in 2022 at an average price of $220 per share and $203 million in 2021 at an average price of $197. Even allowing that the company can be forgiven for not anticipating the collapse in share prices, three of the repurchases were made with borrowed money. Some companies do recapitalize by swapping debt for equity, but those are generally maturing companies moving from their growth to their mature phase, not ones in such a precarious position as Helen of Troy, which has declining sales, $560 million in market cap, and $900 million in long term debt.
So, returning to our original question of whether the collapsing stock price of Helen of Troy is overdone, $146 million in free cash flow for 2025 gives us free cash flow yield of 26%. If we demanded a 10% return on investment, and we could be assured that earnings would decline at no more than 16% a year in perpetuity, we could in theory find a satisfactory purchase. However, as we have said, Helen of Troy imports 63% of its products from China and even before the tariff announcement the company was seeing weakening demand for its products, which as I have said are commoditized and therefore compete largely on price even though HELE’s strategy seems to involving acquiring brands. Therefore, I find it difficult to predict if sales will decline at 10% or 16% or 26% or more (or less, admittedly), and I would not care to take the risk of guessing wrong.
I could take the backup approach and value the company largely on its balance sheet, but owing the company’s acquisitive nature, most of its long term assets consist of goodwill and intangible assets. Tangible assets total $1.382 billion, while the company’s total liabilities come to $1.449 billion. So, when I asked how much further the share price has to fall, all the way to zero is not the trivial answer it first appeared. Furthermore, even if the company is coming up with $146 million in free cash flows every year, a prudent company would shoring up its balance sheet by paying down debt (and an imprudent company is an unattractive proposition in itself), so it could be years before that cash flow would be genuinely available to the shareholders.
Wherefore I can say that even if catching a falling knife were a desirable strategy in general, I think catching this one strikes me as an unattractive proposition, despite the considerable free cash flow yield, and so I cannot recommend it as a candidate for portfolio inclusion.